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THE 24th INTERNATIONAL FASHION AND PHOTOGRAPHY FESTIVAL IN HYERES FROM APRIL 24th TO 27th, 2009 THE INTERNATIONAL TEXTILE AND FASHION CONFERENCE
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| INFORMATION | |
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TEXTILE
AND FASHION CONFERENCES
- Laurence SUDRE-MONNIER
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ORGANIZATION |
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| HOTELS
BOOKING Julie REVUZ |
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| TEXTILE
AND FASHION CONFERENCES - PRESS Jimmy PIHET |
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| CONFERENCES PROGRAM | ||
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| SATURDAY,
APRIL 2009, 25 |
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10.30 am |
FINANCING
METHODS FOR NEW BRANDS
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From
left to right : Jean-Marc
Mucchese, Sylvie Zawadzki, Anne-Valérie Hash, Delphine Le Mintier
et Perrine Houdoux-Stoclet
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table summarized: At the first round table discussion to cover the topic of financing for new fashion brands, participants listed measures which correspond best to the work of fashion designers. This year's economic crisis which hits all industrial sectors also penalizes the very weaknesses indigent to the structure of the fashion industry. It is hard to manage cash flow due to the gap in time between paying production costs and registering sales. Fashion companies also suffer from a lack of equity which is key to a brand's development once it reaches a certain amount of recognition. Three ideas were explored : - For short-term financing, the Oséo company recently expanded one of its guarantee procedures by pre-financing purchases made abroad. This also provides a guarantee of 60% on short-term bank loans. - The work of DEFI was also reiterated. Thanks to this organization, various actions and events are spearheaded by different federations to help young brands grow: financial assistance to participate in trade shows or special events organized by the Federation française de la Couture in China or Brazil. When young labels gain exposure abroad, the designers often are able to sign consulting contracts with foreign companies which helps finance their signature collections. - In the long term, emerging labels need to find shareholders. This is the goal of Mode et Finance, an investment fund whose objective is to take minority stakes in creative fashion firms. |
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2.30 pm |
NORTHERN
HEMISPHERE / SOUTHERN
HEMISPHERE
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From
left to right : Philippe
Ribera, Dominique Jacomet, Graça Cabral & Paulo Borges
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table summarized: Fashion in Brazil is a true passion. Brazilians spend $400 annually on clothing, for every $1000 spent in the US… (all income remaining proportionately the same). Everyone is very familiar with this country's significant production of fabric and silk but today, the fashion industry is recognized by the government as a cultural industry. Brazil's ethnic melting pot and diverse culture leads to a dynamic creativity which we don't see on the familiar and historic streets of Europe. Nevertheless, one of the unique aspects of Brazilian design is the country's investment in new technology and new creative processes for production. The country's biggest challenge, however, is related to the seasonality of fashion. Because Brazil is located in the Southern Hemisphere, the country presents and produces its collections for seasons opposite of those in the Northern Hemisphere. Thus, the question remains: despite the country's dynamic fashion sector, demonstrated notably by the success of São Paolo Fashion Week, can Brazilian fashion firms move beyond the issue of seasons and achieve worldwide success? Today, the main fashion companies of Brazil are trying to attract foreign investors. With a domestic economy that has enjoyed stabililty for the last three to four years, and the fact that the current economic crisis does not seem to have had a big impact on this country of 190 million people, will Brazil become the fashion destination for international designer labels? |
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| 4.30 pm | PHOTOGRAPHY
AND COMMISSIONS: BEHIND THE SCENE Moderated by Michel Mallard, Directeur Artistique, Photographe Speakers Jean-Luc Chirio, Global Print Manager, Publicis Conseil - Paris Janet Froelich, Directrice de Création, New York Times Magazine, T Magazine - New York Peter Knapp, Directeur Artistique, Photographe - Paris Tim Walker, Photographe - Londres |
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From
left to right : Jean-Luc
Chirio, Peter Knapp, Michel Mallard, Tim Walker & Janet Froelich
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table summarized: The fasion photography is sometimes exposed to certain limits: this was the topic explored by the “Photography and Commissions” round-table. Peter Knapp, who introduced the photography into the Elle magazine, was one of the best artistic directors in France. The fashion photos, based on a “work order” or commission, had to express the very personal universes of two artists, the fashion designer and the photographer. What kind of artistic latitude should the fashion photographer have? What is the impact of the model in a photo series? How should a photo commission be prepared? Janet Froelich, who worked for the New York Times for 22 years, discussed this commission process for the print media and also noted the importance of cover photography. Jean-Luc Chirio, head of art acquisition at Publicis, explored the world of advertising and its relationship with photography. Every year, the Hyères Festival International de Mode et de Photographie choses 10 young photographers and advises them on their approach to their trade. |
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| SUNDAY, APRIL 2009, 26 | ||
| 11.00 am | THE
CREATION AND THE ECONOMIC CRISIS Moderated by Pascal Morand, Directeur général de l'ESCP-EAP and Alain Coblence, Avocat aux barreaux de New York et de Paris |
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From
left to right : Pascal
Morand & Alain Coblence
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table summarized: At this round-table discussion, Alain Coblence and Pascal Morand explored the repercussions of the current economic crisis on the fashion industry. In looking at hypothetical ways to emerge from the crisis, these two specialists in law and business illustrated parallels to the circumstances of the 1929 Crash. The recovery plans which were put into place in the US and in Europe decades ago really helped fashion and creativity blossom, which is not the case 80 years later. Nowadays, the consumer is turning towards the art world as soon as he or she feels the need to lighten up their daily life in this morose period. An example of this is that the house of Hermes is enjoying an increase in its “special order” business. In this context, what should the fashion industry do? The futile, the pretty, the distracting - don't these still have their place? And, as Pascal Morand asked, shouldn't companies start to integrate sustainable growth in their business plans? The emergence from the crisis will require a reliance on new business models which mix creativity and innovation with new consumer expectations. Alain Coblence referred to Michael Spence, Nobel Prize winner for economics who said that in the future, innovation should boast ethical, social and aesthetic values in order to motivate and excite society rather than respond to speculation. |
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| 2.30 pm |
THE
LOGIC OF THE INTERNATIONAL FASHION CALENDARS |
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From
left to right : Roberto
Bré, Didier Grumbach, Laurent Raoul, Steven Kolb & Philippe
Pasquet
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table summarized: Pre-collections, cruise collections, fashion weeks, special events, … The international fashion calendars are reaching a saturation point because they are filled with so many events. Fashion executives generally plan their business strategy a year in advance yet economic conditions make any speculation about the future quite hazardous. To better understand the reasons behind the increased frenzy of business activity, Didier Grumbach deciphered the logic of international calendars by studying the growth of the fashion sector over several years. How can the expectations of consumers and producers of different countries be combined? How can the increasing number of fashion collections be included on a fashion week calendar whose dates are inelastic? Should the calendar be re-thought according to the design, production and sales needs of the industry or according to a specific audience? Should sales, the last yet perhaps most important step of the fashion process, be thought of differently, notably with more emphasis on the internet which allows a brand to have worldwide visibility all year long? Deferred fashion shows, or staging fashion shows when the clothes actually hit the stores seems to be a concrete solution to reestablish a better balance. So many facts and issues to deal with today that didn't even exist 15 years ago. So much to consider that impinges the time management of companies. All these were debated by the members of the round-table discussion and the audience. |
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FÉDÉRATION
FRANCAISE DE LA COUTURE
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